Friday, January 25, 2013

Afghanistan's new generation


Wedding center in Kabul
City Star Hall is one of the newest wedding centers in Kabul, Afghanistan, where such celebrations are a big business. Despite the city’s modernization, some fear a return to civil war is on the horizon. (Carolyn Cole, Los Angeles Times /November 29, 2012)
KABUL, Afghanistan — Behind the thick walls of one of Kabul's newest districts, Tooba Hotak practices driving her parents' Mercedes in a parking lot lined with cream-colored apartment buildings.
The car lurches as she tries shifting gears, but the 16-year-old drives on, past a cluster of stores and a playground full of children chasing one another in the snow.
Later, she slips into a pair of fluffy slippers for a chemistry class in her family's plush living room.
Tooba is being home-schooled in the British education system. She hopes to go to college and become an engineer. Marriage, children — "that's not so important," she says.
Like many middle-class Kabul residents of her generation, Tooba lived most of her life abroad. She wasn't born yet when Soviet forces pulled out of the country in 1989, unleashing a civil war that eventually gave rise to the Taliban and drove her family into exile in China.
They returned after the U.S.-led invasion in 2001 to a city that had shaken off the most rigid strictures of the Islamic militants' rule, which denied girls an education and kept them largely confined to their homes.
Although large parts of the population still struggle to survive in overcrowded slums, these teens and young adults live in modern apartments, shop at Western-style malls and supermarkets, swap text messages on their cellphones, celebrate weddings at neon-decked halls and are connected to the world through television, movies and the Internet.
Tooba doesn't worry about what her life might look like after the departure of most U.S. and allied foreign troops next year.
"It will be the same," she says, nibbling a date. "This is a dangerous place for Americans, but not for Afghans."
Her tutor, Naela, looks up from her laptop. "You think you will be driving after the Taliban come?" snaps the teacher, who, like many Afghans, uses one name.
"They will kill you," she says, running a finger across her neck.
Young Afghans such as Tooba belong to a small but growing class of professionals, business owners and civil servants, a manifestation, in part, of the influx of foreign aid, investment and personnel that has accompanied Western military intervention.
Educated and ambitious, they may represent their nation's best hope for a stable future.
Those too young to remember the Taliban may exhibit a blithe confidence, but others are worried, some to the point of making plans to leave, all too aware of the dangers that lie ahead.
***
Aria City, the north Kabul district where Tooba lives with her parents and two sisters, is one of several gated communities catering to white-collar Afghans, offering such prized amenities as central heating and air conditioning, round-the-clock running water and private guards.
Beyond the quiet, tree-lined lanes where Tooba practices driving, honking cars jostle for space on rutted, muddy streets with armored convoys, rickety bicycles, donkey carts and vendors. Designed to be largely self-sufficient, the housing development has its own playground, school, stores, restaurant and mosque.
Hazhir Hoshan, 17, and his high school pals escape the fray and settle into the men's section of the Aria City restaurant. They order a round of chicken burgers and Mountain Dew.
The boys laugh off any thought of another all-out civil war.
"There are many modern men here in Afghanistan," Hazhir says, "so I don't think the war will begin again."
His friend Abdullah Hakimi, also 17, nods. "The Taliban just come with big turbans and long beards," he says between bites. "I think they look funny.… They are not as strong as people think."
Abdullah admires the NATO-trained Afghan army and wants to be a military doctor.
"He likes guns!" Hazhir teases.
No, Abdullah says, "the military needs doctors. The civilian doctors are fleeing from the war zones."
The afternoon stretches before them. They think they might drive over to Gulbahar Center, a downtown shopping mall where young men in skinny jeans and gel-sculpted hair go to catch a movie, play video games or challenge one another on a bucking bronco machine.
Afghanistan is "like a new child," Hazhir says. "It's good now. We go to school, play football.… We can have fun together."
***
The mall, which opened four years ago, is a mash-up of brash Western styles and more conservative Afghan tastes. Fashion-conscious customers browse through aisles of short, strappy dresses, expensive cosmetics and the latest high-tech gadgetry. There is even a tattoo parlor.
Tucked into a corner on the third floor are two new shops, one selling modest black robes and head scarves, the other lingerie in delicate floral and camouflage prints.
Omid Mesrabi, 23, opened the businesses last month with money he saved while working at an embassy for six years. He runs the Islamic dress store, and his sister Muzhda, 18, takes care of customers in search of more intimate apparel.
Both shops are doing well, he says, and he is already thinking of expanding. "My plan is to be a really successful businessman, not [just] a shopkeeper."
His family never left Afghanistan and he remembers all too well the days when rival Islamic militias rained rockets down on Kabul's neighborhoods. Mesrabi is excited about the changes.
"Things are getting better day by day," he says. "We didn't have good roads, buildings or centers like these. But now we have them."
He adds with a sardonic smile: "Even the suicide bombers are improving. They are killing more people."
An ambulance packed with explosives was detonated outside the mall during a high-profile assault on the city center in 2010. Visitors are asked to check their guns at the entrance and submit to a thorough search.
"We suffered 40 years of war, and after this, maybe war will come back," Mesrabi says. "But it's not something to worry about. We are used to it."
He is more concerned about the economic fallout from the departure of foreign forces and their consultants and contractors. Mesrabi says his best customers are people who work for foreign businesses and nonprofits, many of which are already scaling back.
But he says he won't be joining any rush for the exits.
"Afghanistan needs me," he says. "I want to be an example. I brought my sister here to work. Brothers never accept that.… We are the people to change others' minds."
***
With her spiky heels, can-do attitude and successful television career, Zarlasht Baiza, 23, would seem to epitomize the opportunities that have become available to urban Afghan women in the last decade. But she is the first to point out her special circumstances.
"Most families are not allowing girls to work for a TV station," she says over a smoothie at one of the city's smart new cafes. "My parents died [of cancer] when I was little. I have a brother and a sister. But they are younger than me, so they can't stop me."
Baiza was just 16 when she started working at the private Ariana Television Network. It was several years before the station agreed to put her on the air. She has made enough money to pay off the debt on her parents' house and provide for her siblings.
She has a loyal following among Afghan homemakers because of a regular feature she does on the latest trends in decor, fashion and cosmetics. But she has also attracted the attention of anonymous callers who tell her that women have no business being on television.
"Instead of showing yourself on camera, go beg in the streets. It's better," one menacing voice told her.
Several times the callers informed her they were outside her home. Then the siblings would hear loud banging at the gate.
"All three of us would cover ourselves with blankets, so we wouldn't hear the banging," Baiza says.
She reported the calls to the police, but no arrests were made.
"We will talk after 2014," the threatening voice on the phone told her.
There has even been pressure from the current government, which last year asked female TV presenters to wear head scarves and avoid heavy makeup.
"Sometimes I wonder what will happen if the Taliban take over again," Baiza says. "Although we say there has been a lot of progress in the last 12 years, as we move closer to 2014, the situation is getting more restrictive for women because they are worried about what is going to happen."
She says she knows several women who have quit their TV jobs because of family and public pressure.
"I love my job as a producer and reporter," she says. "But maybe before the end of 2014, I will leave [Afghanistan] for a few months and see what happens."
Special correspondent Hashmat Baktash and Times staff photographer Carolyn Cole contributed to this report.

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Afghanistan's Improving Ways


Afghanistan’s improving ways

By Published: January 16

NEW DELHI
For Americans weary of nearly a dozen years of war, Afghanistan often seems like a country where nothing ever changes and the same story of ethnic and tribal struggle repeats itself in an endless loop.
But Afghanistan’s demographics have changed in significant ways over the past decade. Rather than being mired in a perpetual feudal twilight, Afghanistan is actually becoming a modern country. The statistical evidence of change, gathered from sources including data from the U.S. Agency for International Development, is overwhelming. Even discounting for the upbeat tone of the USAID summary of “Achievements in Afghanistan,” there still appear to be important demographic improvements on the ground.

The urbanization and economic development that have reshaped Afghanistan do not mean that the country will have a bright political future or that the Taliban won’t regain a measure of power after U.S. troops leave in 2014. But the future won’t simply be a replay of the past. The Afghanistan movie won’t just restart where it left off when the Taliban were driven from power.

“The Taliban won’t have a free run,” says a senior Indian official in a conversation here about Afghanistan’s future after U.S. troops leave. “This is not 1990 again. Afghanistan is a changed place.”
The most obvious change is urbanization. Close to half the population now lives in cities and towns. Kabul is a city of 5 million people, and the populations of Herat, Jalalabad and Kandahar have all tripled in the past decade. This urbanization weakens ethnic and tribal affiliations and helps women get access to jobs and education.

While still primitive in some rural areas, the country is also getting plugged into the global grid. More than 20 million people, or two-thirds of the country, now have access to mobile phones, up from zero a decade ago. Saad Mohseni, who runs MOBY Group, the country’s biggest media company, estimates that 60 percent of the population watches some television each week, and nearly 95 percent has access to radio.

The billions that America pumped into the country helped foster corruption, to be sure, but the money didn’t all vanish into bank accounts in Dubai. Gross domestic product per capita has increased nearly fivefold since 2002, with an annual growth rate of about 9 percent. Only 18 percent of the population has access to reliable electrical power, but that’s triple what it was a decade ago.

The improvements in health are striking, even after a decade of war. Access to basic health services is available to more than 60 percent of Afghans today, up from 9 percent in 2001. Life expectancy has increased from 44 years to 60 in the past decade; the maternal mortality rate has declined 80 percent; the under-5 mortality rate has dropped 44 percent. The number of primary health-care facilities has increased nearly fourfold.

Afghanistan has rebuilt an education system that had nearly stopped functioning. In 2002, only 900,000 students were in primary school, nearly all boys. Today, 8 million students are in school, more than a third of them girls. University enrollment jumped from 8,000 in 2001 to 77,000 in 2011, and about 20 percent of these higher-education students are women. Literacy is currently about 35 percent, but it’s expected to grow to 55 percent in 10 years and 80 percent in 20, unless disaster strikes.

The gains women have made are an especially visible index of change, but they are also a reminder that progress is fragile and could be reversed by the Taliban. In addition to the vastly larger number of female students, women now hold 27 percent of the seats in parliament, three Cabinet posts and 120 judicial positions. By the end of this year, at least 30 percent of government employees will be women.
Afghanistan is a democracy, too — corrupt and capricious, but for now it’s probably the freest country in the neighborhood, compared to Pakistan, Iran and the central Asian nations. It has a free and independent media, producing everything from an Afghan knockoff of “American Idol” to situation comedies to versions of “Sesame Street” dubbed into Dari and Pashto.

For many Americans, the Afghan War feels like defeat — a painful waste of money and lives. Many people felt that way when the Vietnam War ended, little imagining the economic boom that would eventually come to that country after so many decades of brutal suffering. History is mysterious that way; sometimes the deeper transformations are invisible at the time.

Who can say what the future holds for Afghanistan? Surely, the country’s turmoil and suffering won’t end when U.S. troops depart; the situation may get much worse. But it’s a mistake to assume that nothing changed during America’s years of struggle there, or that many of those changes weren’t for the good.
davidignatius@washpost.com

Hail to the Chief!




January 21, 2013 was a great day to be an American. Everything about the second inauguration of Barack H. Obama made me proud, including the Presidential Inaugural Ball, which I attended with my son, Alex Footman. The DC Convention Center (700,000 square feet) was tricked out to appear as if 10 Senior Proms were taking place side by side (except for the very generous bars which featured every alcoholic beverage you could imagine). There must have been enough mink in that room to blanket a small nation.  My suggestions for future Inaugural Ball-goers follow. Shoes: wear flats (you will be on your feet for several hours; not a chair in sight) but be prepared to be dwarfed by the throngs of gorgeous young women in floor-length gowns wearing stiletto heels. They will obscure your view of the stage, even if you are squeezed into the third row. Sort of. (As if the term “rows” applies when 35,000 revelers are crammed together just to get a glimpse of A- and B-list celebrities and the honorees they have come to sing to/for. ) And those same young women in long dresses will occasionally look your way witheringly and say to you – as if you could move your feet an inch in any direction – “Are you stepping on my dress?” iPhones: the blessing and the curse of our time. In this instance, a curse because everyone – most especially the already 6’7” behemoth standing directly in front of me – and his/her husband wife, daughter, sister, brother, son, and daughter – will lift and keep lifted those instruments of immediate gratification just to get the money shot. So, yes, I saw the Obamas. I saw the Bidens. I saw Alicia Keys, Jamie Foxx, Jennifer Hudson, Katy Perry, Smokey, and Usher.  (Usher’s rendition of “America the Beautiful” was stunning. Not a dry eye around me.) (Thanks to the miracle of modern surgery, Smokey Robinson can virtually lay claim to an “ear to ear” smile. Better stop while you’re ahead, Smokey!) Mostly I saw them through the crooks of arms elevated and bent at a slight angle putting their iPhones to the test.  Entertainment: boogie if you feel like it, but this is not a dance as Dances go. The only people who danced were POTUS and FLOTUS and Joe and Dr. Jill. Oh, sure, there is a lot of moving around, but this is not the dancing you learned at Miss De Sauers Dance Class. Good company: you will make instant friendships with the erstwhile strangers standing in front, behind, and to each side of you. Be nice. Do not keep asking your 25-year old son who came with you, “Which one are they?” if you do not know the name of one or more entertainers. (“Far East Movement” and he had never heard of them, either.) I loved it when two tuxedoed men cut in front of us, apologizing that “We’re looking for our wives.” When my son wished them good luck, one said to the other, “Well, if we can’t find them, we can always find other wives here!” nodding at the crowd of 35,000.  (Maybe you had to be there!) Clap, cheer, whoop, stamp your feet.  I defy anyone with a pulse to stay still when the U.S. Army Bank queues up "Ruffles and Flourishes" followed by "Hail to the Chief." Most of all: BE PROUD! Last night, there was no 47%, there was no 1%, there were only Americans from all walks of life, from all corners of the map, standing on common ground, united in purpose.